Tony DiFiore, Jr. asked:


Conducting periodic maintenance will ensure its performance capabilities and life of your vehicle. The following are general recommended intervals for your passenger vehicle, SUV, minivan and pickup truck and are based on oil changes performed every 3,000 miles. Always read your owner’s manual for other recommendations.

Every month check the following:

• Engine light. If the engine light remains lit after the vehicle is started; check the owner’s manual for possible malfunctions. The vehicle may have an emissions or sensor problem. If it is blinking, it indicates a more serious problem and needs immediate attention.

• Lights, inside and outside the vehicle. Check the fuses first, then the light bulbs. Buy the recommended size and type for your vehicle at your local auto parts shop. If you are unsure of the type, the helpers at the auto parts shop can locate the right light or fuse.

• Proper tire inflation and condition. Not only does the correct pressure help ensure the life of the tire, but also your gas mileage. Check tread and general condition of each tire including the spare. The tires should be free of bulges, cracks and uneven wear. Any of these imperfections are a sign of needed replacement.

• Windshield washer fluid. Some vehicles have two reservoirs. If the fluid is low, do not replace with regular tap water. Fill with only windshield washer fluid from your local auto parts shop.

Every 3 months or 3000 miles (whichever comes first) check the following:

• Automatic Transmission Fluid. Check the fluid with the engine running and transmission in park. If the dipstick indicates it is low, add the manufacturer’s recommended type until the dipstick indicates it is full. If the fluid type is unknown or difficult to read on the dipstick, contact your local auto parts shop and ask for help. ATF only needs to be changed every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

• Battery and Cables. Battery cables should be clean and securely mounted. If the battery is three years old or more, it should be tested and checked and replaced if necessary. Visit Parts Plus Auto store to buy a battery if necessary.

• Belts. Check V and serpentine belts for wear and tear. They should not have visible signs of cracking, fraying, or glazing this indicates excessive wear and needs replacement. The timing belt is typically replaced every 60,000 to 90,000 miles and can be bought or ordered from an auto parts shop.

• Air and oil filters. Inspect engine air filters at every oil change and replace annually or sooner if the filter is oil soaked or shows signs of excessive wear. Oil filters should be changed and replaced at every oil change to maximize an engine’s performance.

• Fuel Filter. Inspect. For vehicles with carburetors, the filter should be replaced annually while those with fuel injection only needs replaced every two years or 24,000 miles.

• Hoses. Inspect and change when cracked, leaking, rusted or restricted.

• Power steering fluid. Check when the car is warm and if topping off is required regularly, then it is time to get it checked for leaks.

• Follow monthly checks as well.

Every 6 months or 6000 miles in addition to regular monthly maintenance and 3 month checks:

• Chassis lubrication. Most newer model vehicles do not require this check although steering and suspension components may need lubrication.

• Exhaust. Inspect for leaks, cracks and damaged supports or hangers. A leaking exhaust is dangerous and needs maintenance immediately.

• Polish. Use only automotive polish instead of regular dish soap to prevent removing the original polish from the vehicle. Automobiles only need waxed and polished twice a year.

• Wiper blades. Replace if chipped, cracked, streaking or excessively worn.

Every 9 months or 9000 miles – same as 3 and 6-month maintenance checks.

Every 12 months or 12,000 miles check the following:

• Brakes. Check entire brake system including rotors, drums and brake linings. Most replacement parts are sold at the auto parts shop.

• Cabin air filter. Replace once a year or in places where air contaminants are worse or when heating and cooling is not working properly.

• Coolant (antifreeze). Change annually when the engine is cold; mix with a 50/50 solution as recommended by the owner’s manual. Some brands are premixed and are sold at auto parts shops.

• Steering and Suspension. Inspect the entire system and replace as needed. Symptoms of a replacement needed are uneven tire wear and excessive bouncing after bumps.

Keep a schedule of monthly maintenance in your car, so you will know what service is required at your vehicle’s next check up. Many owners’ manuals have a place to write down service dates and maintenance performed.



LAVERNE

qpzomwe385 asked:

http:///www.TestDriveShow.ca See our Used Car Buying Tips video for all used car, used SUV, used trucks, used vans in this funny video. See why we are Mississauga and Toronto used car experts!

JULIUS

dennis james asked:


Most people wonder what the best way to buy a car is, and how to save time and money and of course, still buy a great car.

Of course, this does not mean at all that you have to do studies on the subject; you only have to know overall what you want based on your funds and simply follow a car-buying guide.

Car buying guides are very useful because they give you a list of information regarding cars – an not only technical information, serious buying guides have even researched opinions so that the buyer will know exactly what to expect from the car.

Of course, there are many car guides out there, so the question is now, how to find a serious written one. Well, a correctly written car buyer’s guide should not only give that general information that you may get on a flyer but rather give accurate values regarding the car, some weak points, its strong points and so on.

When purchasing a used vehicle a car buyer’s guide is almost a must have. You see, when the buyer is interested in buying a used car it is easier for him to check the exact potential of the car and what are the exact points that lowered the car’s value through time.

Now, if the buyer is informed enough he may understand problems that may appear in the future and call the deal off. Aside from the fact that the car may be in excellent condition, those are not the listings you should be looking for – in other words, you should always look for the average or poor conditions. This range will inform the buyer of the estimated right price for the car they intend to buy and this way he will know if the price difference is right or too high – and you can see this either at a private individual or at a car dealership.

As mentioned before, car buyer’s guides are not only useful with used cars but rather with new cars as well. Not only that the guide will inform the buyer on the important details that may not be written in the flyer, but those details will also give information on how much exactly the car will depreciate itself in time, and that itself will tell a lot about its price in a few years.

You always have to buy a car thinking about its price after two or three years because buying an expensive car now and selling it very cheap later will not do your pocket any good.

You will find a better car value according to the guide when a vehicle has a lower depreciation rate compared to other vehicles in its price range. Another important thing is to compare cars that are on the same level – because for example, a BMW will never depreciate as fast as a Hyundai.



JAMISON

Theodore Olson asked:


How much insurance does one need? You have the big four: home, health, life, and car insurance. Then there’s a second category, which starts getting a little hazy with credit card insurance, purchase protection plans, fraud insurance and more. Extended warranties, also called extended service contracts, or extended service policies fall into the mist of this second category.

Extended warranties are supposed to pay (in full or in part) for specified repairs for a specific period of time after the expiration of the factory warranty. They can be a great value. They can also be a significant waste of money. It gets quite foggy in the details. What exactly is covered? How long? How much? Are there hidden charges?

There are numerous extended warranty companies and an even wider variety of warranty packages available: silver, gold, platinum, platinum-plus, and a host of other confidence-building words. What’s the best plan, and are extended service contracts worth the money? Extended warranties, like life insurance policies, are a numbers game. They’re a gamble. You pay $2500-$4500 for a 2 year, 100,000-mile protection plan and hope that you get at least that back in warranty repairs. The provider on the other hand, hopes to pay out less than it insured.

There are three major types of plan providers: The manufacturer, the dealership/third party, and third party providers. Each one has its assets and liabilities (discussed ahead).

What exactly is covered in an extended service plan? As mentioned above, what’s covered depends on the package purchased. Some plans only cover the power train: the mechanical components of the engine, transmission, and rear-end. Others cover the power train plus some electrical components. Still others cover electrical, advanced electrical, and computer components. Some only cover what’s listed in the contract. This is called a “Stated” or “Named” contract. This means that if it’s not stated, it’s not covered. Some cover bumper-to-bumper, similar to a manufacturer warranty, except trim pieces, upholstery, exterior components, cosmetic items, and a number of other exclusions.

Never before has the adage, “The devil’s in the details,” been so applicable.

Manufacturer Extended Plans:

Extended service plans from the manufacturer are the best in terms of coverage, convenience, and quality. Coverage is similar to the warranty while the vehicle was under its original factory warranty—with similar exclusions stated above. The billing is direct, meaning you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket, except for a deductible, if applicable. Quality is great too, as an extended warranty from the manufacturer will only use factory parts. They also have money, so there’s less risk of bankruptcy.

The down side of manufacturer extended service plans is that they are not cheap. These plans are generally the most expensive, require low mileage standards, and necessitate servicing your vehicle at a dealer for coverage.

Dealership/Third Party Plans:

Extended warranties from a dealership are actually from a third party insurer. These providers are “generally” reputable, but not always. However, if there is an issue (such as the warranty provider filing chapter 11, which is quite frequent in the extended service contract business), the dealer “may” step in to cover any repairs that would have been covered under the defunct plan. Also, claims are easier: billing is direct because the dealership has a working relationship with the provider, and there is usually agreement on price.

Some dealers set up their own “internal extended warranty,” which is honored by the selling dealer. This is rare, and should not be confused with a manufacturer warranty. Important: extended warranties are often passed off as “manufacturer” warranties. They’re not. This is a sales trick. Also be aware that there is a significant mark up, as the dealership is merely acting as the middle man. Lastly, extended warranty companies often go bankrupt without warning.

Third Party Plans:

These plans are called third party plans because they are outside the responsibility of the manufacturer and the service center performing the repairs (unless there’s a working relationship with a repair shop as stated above).

There are hundreds of extended service contract companies. Some have good reputations, some don’t. Third party plans are frequently sold by used car dealers. You may also receive an official looking notification in the mail stating that your warranty is expiring, and directing you to call an 800 number ASAP. This is a marketing tactic by an independent warranty provider. Despite the “official” appearance of the postcard or envelope, it’s not from the manufacturer. Manufacturers do not send out reminders about warranty expirations.

Given the wide-variety of third party plans there are numerous red flags.

1) Claims: Extended warranty companies will be quick to tell you that filing claims is easy, and that the service center gets paid immediately via a credit card. Thus, there’s no out-of-pocket expense for you. However, the warranty company can’t dictate a service center’s policies. Some service centers will only accept payment from the repair customer. Thus the burden is on the repair customer to fill out the forms, contact their warranty company, and await reimbursement via check, which can take 2-8 weeks.

It is the service center’s responsibility to contact the extended warranty company to let them know what’s wrong with the vehicle and to check coverage. This process can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 20 days, sometimes more, depending on the degree of repairs and especially the amount. (See $1000 and Adjusters ahead)

Service centers and extended warranty companies frequently battle over the “fair” price of repairs. Many repair shops no longer negotiate, and just state the price, leaving the contract holder (i.e., the service customer) responsible for the difference.

2) Rentals: Rental coverage is a great benefit. However, there are fixed rates and time limits. In other words, the warranty company is not going to pay to have you drive a Mercedes-Benz, even if you drive a Benz. Rental allowances range from $25 to $35 per day. Also, rental coverage is based on the number of hours it takes to repair the vehicle, NOT how long your car has been at the shop.

3) $1000 and Adjusters: Repairs that approach $1000, or that require a significant amount of work, will be cause for the warranty company to call in an adjuster to confirm the diagnosis. This will delay the repairs by a minimum of 24-48 hours. It may cost you additional money when an adjuster is involved. You may be charged to have your vehicle pulled back into the shop for inspection, as well as for the time spent with the adjuster.

4) Tear-down Charges: In many cases, an extended warranty company will require that a particular component be taken apart for inspection to determine if the repair is indeed needed and covered. This puts the service customer in a very awkward position. The customer will have to authorize potentially hundreds of dollars of tear-down expense in the hopes that the repair is covered. If it’s not, the customer is out the hundreds in tear-down PLUS the actual repair. This does happen!

Common Myths:

1) “Extended warranties cover maintenance services and brake work.”

No. Extended warranty plans do not cover maintenance or wearable items. Brake pads and rotors are wearable parts. Maintenance such as coolant, brake and transmission flushes, tune-ups, services, oil changes, bulbs, wipers, and more are not covered.

2) “They told me it’s bumper-to-bumper, so it covers everything right?”

Wrong. Not even a factory warranty covers everything. When pitching the sale for the extended warranty, one is very often lead to believe that he or she will have nothing to worry about. This is just not true on so many levels. For example, if your bumper falls off it’s not covered.

3) “I don’t have to pay anything, right?”

Wrong. Despite the claims of 100% coverage, there are many factors involved. The labor rates, labor hours, diagnostic times, parts prices, and machine work are just a few items that often conflict with a service center’s policies. Some extended contracts only pay a maximum of $55 per hour, and only allow one half hour for diagnostic time. This is generally unacceptable to the service center, as labor rates have skyrocketed to over $100 per hour at many dealerships, and average $75 at local shops. Moreover, with the complexity of today’s vehicles, diagnostic time is at a premium. The customer pays the difference.

4) “If I have an expensive problem, I can just purchase an extended service contract.”

It’s unethical, but it’s an option many attempt. However, most service contracts have a minimum time requirement before the first claim can be filed: usually three months. Also, many contracts require that your vehicle be inspected by a service center to check for pre-existing conditions—just like life insurance.

5) “My contract lasts up to 100,000 miles.”

Only if the time limit doesn’t run out first. All extended warranty plans have a time limit. For example, a typical contract will state that the vehicle is covered for two years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. During the sales pitch, however, the emphasis will be on the 100,000 miles, not the time.

6) “If my car breaks, it gets fixed like new.”

Actually, depending on the contract, an extended warranty company can insist on installing remanufactured or even used parts.

Items commonly not covered by extended warranties:

• Any component with a pre-existing condition

• Any component related to a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)

• Many components that has been updated by the manufacturer

• Extra components necessary “due to manufacturer updates” to complete the repair

• Trim pieces: molding, cup holders, dashboard, console, body parts, glass

• Many accessories: radios, DVD players, TVs

• Many expensive electronics: climate control units, navigation assemblies

Service contract positives:

Some service contracts are transferable, and may thus increase the resale value of a vehicle. Many come with trip interruption reimbursement, towing and 24-hour road side. Some plans can also be financed, or have E-Z Pay Plans. Others offer a money-back guarantee.

What should you do?

You’ll get lots of advice about doing the research, comparing plans, and reading the fine print. This is all sound advice. But what about doing the math?

Let’s say a plan costs $2500 for 2 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. To break even you’ll need a minimum of $1250 per year in covered repairs, excluding regular maintenance. Remember covered is the vital word here.

Another way to break it down is to anticipate having to pay $104.17 per month over the next two years in “covered” repairs. Do you want to take that bet?

What could happen?

You could double your money or more in repair work. You could conceivably get a new engine and transmission (or used ones anyway). You could also easily spend $2500 for a service contract, and still have to pay another $2500 for repairs, which for a variety of reasons, were not covered under your plan. Now you’re out $5000.

Alternatively, you could keep the initial $2500. In many ways all an extended warranty does is prepay for repairs. You could stick the money in the bank and collect interest. Then you could withdraw the money for repairs as needed.

Another consideration that’s rarely discussed is the cause of the problems. Many car repairs problems are the result of wear and tear, neglected maintenance, physical damage, or acts of God—such as flood damage. None of this is covered. The gamble only covers failed components.

If the vehicle you’re driving does cost $2500 to $4500 in repairs due to outright failed components, is it a vehicle you even want to consider keeping? A vehicle that needs this kind of repair work due to mechanical, electrical, or computer failures may not be worth it. The $2500-$4500 would be better spent on an upgrade to a quality vehicle rather than insuring a lemon.

There’s no question that auto repair is expensive, and even quality cars break from time to time. But do they breakdown to the tune of $2500-$4500? That’s a hefty bet on a “possibility.”

Terence O’Hara from the Washington Post makes an excellent assessment about extended warranties in general. He writes:

…extended warranties play upon a basic human trait to avoid loss, even if it means sacrificing a possible future gain…the gain is all the other things of value that a consumer could buy with the money that was spent on a warranty

What’s the best plan?

Money in your bank account!



RONNIE

AK asked:


Is there a certain limit of cars you can buy and sell a year in Ohio? I am just a car lover and I purchase different cars, keep them for awhile, then sell them to get something else. I looked on the OHIO DMV website and found nothing. Does anyone know a website that would disclose this info? Thanks.

RON

Robert asked:


st one of those mornings. As the rain pours down and I’m trying to start my mini (yes those old small ones) I decide it’s time to buy a new car.

Now, before I embark on this wonderful journey- there are a few stumble blocks I need to sort out. Firstly, I can’t afford a new car, but I’m sure I can find a nice, affordable used car somewhere. Secondly, I have no idea what to look for in a car.

For me it’s all about how cute I will look in it and that it will take me from point A to point B. I know nothing more than the absolute necessary. The engine is in the front under the hood, the spare wheel is somewhere in the back and I know where the exhaust is. Furthermore, my knowledge is very limited.

With my boyfriend out of town and my time relatively limited, I need to find some or other guide to help me. A guide for people who knows nothing about cars, something written for dummies, a buyers guide for used cars.

Obviously, the best and first place I look for this ‘Used car buyers guide for dummies’ is on the Internet. I, of course, find quite a few irrelevant results that just show me lists of car dealers.

Eventually I stumble across a very in-depth used car buyers guide that gives you twelve different things to look out for when buying a car. I had to read it twice to understand everything, but eventually I got the hang of it.

Firstly, they give some helpful advice regarding the purchase of the used car. Then they chat about registration and documentation and give some useful information- mentioning things like the “Vehicle Identification Number” and where you need to look for it!

Furthermore the buyers guide supply the reader with tips on what to look out for when they are viewing a second hand or used car. They even include the appearance of the car- and no this is not just the outside of the car!

They give little tidbits to look out for when you start-up the engine. Apparently, when you test-drive the motor vehicle, you should drive it at various speeds- this will give you an indication of the condition of the engine.

The bodywork of the used car must be inspected and you should look out for any accident damage to the car. Make sure to check out the interior and the upholstery- lift seat covers to see if the seller isn’t just hiding damaged seats!

Half of these things I would have never even thought to look at! Other tips include information about the gearbox and clutch, brakes and suspension, radiator and cooling system, as well as more general things like steering and tyres.

Must say, after reading this guide, I will definitely be able to pick out my new second hand used car with more confidence! For those women and other dummies out there that know nothing about what to look out for when buying a second hand or used car- get yourself a buyers guide! It really does help.

IGNACIO

LYN asked:


What would a dealership have to offer you to get you to come in and buy a car Im in advertising

EBONY

mdns4v asked:

DO NOT MISS THIS VIDEO! Important things you MUST know to buy a used car these tips are invaluable and will help you find the perfect car and not get ripped off!

PEARL

TotalVidInc asked:

Find more Car Repair videos at: http://www.zipidee.com/MultipleSearch.aspx?cat=Cars%20and%20Vehicles&subcat=Repair%20and%20Parts

This video covers all the tips you need to know for buying a car.

HOW DO I?, Inc. has revolution…

TotalVid/Zipidee is legally authorized to distribute this video. Please contact copyright@zipidee.com if you have questions regarding copyright issues or inquiries.

HEATHER

wiseornotyoudecide asked:


I can never get why people pay so much money for cars that they won’t even drive. Why not get new cars worth their money and drive them down, rather than buying old cars that will end up sitting in a garage. I though cars were created by designers to be enjoyed and driven hard, not store them where the only enjoyment will be by the dust that sits on them.

CAROLINE